Every citrus fruit in Sicily descends from four wild fruits of Asia. Fruit sketches hand-drawn by the author.
By Erik Gauger · · Updated
This chart is the epilogue to The Citrus Kingdom, an eight-part series on how citrus, carried west from Asia, shaped Sicily’s politics, culture and cuisine for a thousand years. This is how its fruits are related.
Papeda lineCitron linePomelo lineMandarin lineHybrid parentSport (a mutation)
Roman numerals mark each fruit’s chapter in The Citrus Kingdom. Tap a fruit to read it. A dotted line is a sport: one branch of one tree that mutated, the way the late mandarin of Ciaculli began. The bottom three rows are not new crosses either: they are selections and mutations of the sweet orange and the lemon. The full hand-drawn Citrus of Sicily plate is below.
Sour orange: pomelo × mandarin, an ancient cross made in Asia. Part II, Cefalù
Interdonato: a lemon–citron hybrid, bred in Sicily. Part III, Lipari
Sweet orange: pomelo × mandarin, crossed back to mandarin, in Asia. Tarocco, Moro and Sanguinello, the three blood oranges of Etna, are red mutations of it; Tarocco and Moro arose from Sanguinello in Syracuse province, in eastern Sicily. Part IV, Taormina
Verdello: a Femminello lemon forced into a summer crop. Part VI, Ortigia
Femminello: Sicily’s main lemon. Monachello and Lunario are its neighbors; Limone dell’Etna is Femminello and Monachello grown on the volcano. Part VII, Modica
Tardivo di Ciaculli: the late mandarin, a sport of an Avana mandarin tree in Ciaculli, near Palermo, in the 1940s, ripening from January into March. Part VIII, Conca d’Oro
Mandarino: the Mediterranean mandarin, called Avana in Sicily, grown in Italy since the early 1800s. Part VIII, Conca d’OroClementine: mandarin × sweet orange, from Algeria, around 1900.
Lemon: sour orange × citron, a hybrid of a hybrid. Where it first arose is uncertain.
Biondo Comune, Ovale, Valencia, Navelina and Ribera: the blond sweet oranges grown in Sicily. Part IV, Taormina
Bergamot: sour orange × lemon, grown in Calabria; its origin is disputed. Chinotto: a mutation of the sour orange.
Cedrino: a smaller, historically recognized form of the cedro, the citron.
Pompia: sour orange × citron, from Sardinia. Lumia: an old citron hybrid, most often citron × pomelo.
Key lime: papeda × citron, from Southeast Asia. Persian lime: Key lime × lemon; its place of origin is unknown. Grapefruit: sweet orange × pomelo, from Barbados in the 18th century.
My Copic, liner pen and pencil drawing of the key citrus players in Sicily’s history—some are Sicilian icons, others the ancestral species that made them possible.